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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.